The Krabi restaurant guide - March 2006
Picnic food
Another disappointing lunch on the tour boat? Time to take action and bring your own meal. Below, we show you where to go for the perfect picnic food
MOST tourists spend their days in Krabi taking in a few sights on a tour: perhaps a cruise around the spectacular Phi Phi Islands; snorkelling in the tropical paradise of Ko Rok; or a kayak trip in the canyons of Ao Thalane. But while the places visited themselves are magnificent, the food produced at lunchtime, with a few rare exceptions, nearly always fails to live up to the occasion.
In fact, if one compares them to the beautiful surroundings in which they are served, tour lunches are surely the culinary equivalent of Slough or, in dire cases, Groszny. Insipid, cold fried rice served in a polystrene box, anyone? Care for a portion of watery green curry, or the dreaded chunky onion, pineapple and ketchup concotion that is ‘sweet and sour’?
Why tour food is like this is a subject of weary debate among the people who have to work on the boats and eat it every day. After all, Thailand is a foodie’s paradise. They usually conclude that operators are simply trying to appeal to the lowest common denominator - if you make the food as bland and tasteless as possible, then you are not likely to upset any of the 20 or 30 individuals on each trip, each with their own particular eating habits. This makes sense, but in practice trying to please everyone usually means you end up pleasing no one at all.
The solution? Take affirmative action. With a little careful planning, discerning customers can simply boycott the group repast and BYOL (bring your own lunch). Far from causing offence, or being looked down upon, you will be the envy of your fellow tourists, as well as gaining cred from the guides - you will notice the crafty Thai staff normally eat a separate, far tastier lunch prepared specially for them.
You have to get up a little earlier than usual in order to prepare for this - or better still, order the night before, so the food is ready to be picked up in the morning - but it will all seem worth it when you are ravenous and out on the islands. This is, of course, the only option available when chartering a longtail boat from the mainland coast - none of the local islands have any food or drink facilities, so a picnic lunch is a must.
You can usually order food in any restaurant that is open for breakfast. Below we list some of our favourites. Tours will provide cold drinks and fruit refreshments for you so there is no need to bring these; if you are going independently, you may like to consider buying a bag of ice in which to store your bottles and cans on the boat.
In Ao Nang
For an authentic Thai picnic, pick up a portion of som tam [green papaya salad] from the ladies selling it on the roadside near Phra Nang Inn. Team with some fried or barbecued chicken and sticky rice (available from the same stalls) for a complete meal. If sandwiches are more your taste, then try Coffee Arthit, next to Poseidon Diving. Fillings are fairly standard, but the ciabatta bread in which they are served is delicious - and filling. There are yummy cakes and pastries to take away as well.
More interesting, so-called ‘Happy Snacks’ can be found at Chanaya’s, opposite Krabi Seaview Resort. Here you can pick up a spicy lamb shawarma in pitta bread, chicken satay, or a sandwich of Dutch krokete, crispy meat ragu-filled potato balls.
In Krabi Town
Cafe Europa, or its little sister Nyhavn can do any of its menu to take away, but especially recommended are the open sandwiches or smørrebrød. Pickled herring, tender roast beef or crispy bacon - all surely sound more tempting than slimy stir-fried chicken. May & Mark (Maharat Soi 2) also have a good range of sandwiches to go.
In Ko Lanta
Here, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to baked goods, especially in Phra Ae and Saladan. Santo’s, just next to Saladan Health Center, deservedly holds one of the best reputations, with their great range of breads, pastries, sandwiches and burgers. Catfish, on Saladan’s seafront itself, meanwhile does a fantastic double falafel wrap for a mere 80 Baht.
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