Activities and things to do: Spas and massage

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ALL the spas in Krabi are about self-indulgence, rather than self-improvement (no fasting, yoga or exercise regimes here). Most are found attached to a big hotel, either indoors or set in the luxury of a tropical garden and all provide a welcome escape from the 21st century western malaise of stress and information overload.

Indeed, everything in these places is designed to be as far from the drudge of office life as possible. In Thailand, this sensory gratification has been honed to a fine art - smell, colour and texture all seeming more intense and vibrant in the warm climate.

The benefits of visiting a spa in Krabi seem to be largely due to this other-worldly ambience, rather than the treatments themselves, which are fairly standard (body wraps, scrubs and facials with the emphasis on natural ingredients, such as tamarind, coconut and various herbs, rather than brand-name products). One exception to this is the Thai massage, however, which when practised regularly over a couple of weeks' holiday will really leave you feeling like a different person (see below).

Beauty treatments, haircuts, manicures and waxing etc. are also all widely available in the tourist areas in standard beauty salons at much cheaper prices. If you really want your hair braided with beads (why?) it is also possible to do it in Ao Nang.

THE origins of Thai massage go back thousands of years and are rooted in a practical, holistic system of medicine, based on four principles: nutrition; the application of herbs; massage and stretching; and meditation.

What has become 'Thai massage' today is based on these ancient methods and has been influenced over the course of the years by Chinese medicine (in its attention to pressure points) as well as, more recently, reflexology and various physiotherapy techniques.

Thai massage is far more interactive than the style of massage you will be used to at home. Here, therapists use feet, hands, elbows, knees and heels to exert gentle pressure along the meridians (or energy lines) of the body and to move and hold limbs in various yoga positions. From there they compress and stretch the muscles with pressing, kneading, and gentle rocking movements.

You yourself remain completely passive throughout as you are pushed and pulled into shape, which is why Thai massage is often called 'yoga for the lazy'. Manipulation is concentrated on the feet, legs and hips, with - unusually for a massage - hardly any work done on the back directly.

At the end of a Thai massage, which, if done properly, should last two hours, you should feel both relaxed and energised. Regular practice improves your whole posture and flexibility. The internal organs and blood and lymph circulation are also stimulated, which results in smoother functioning and better elimination of toxins from the body. Blocked areas of tension should open out and your body and mind should feel more balanced and refreshed.

If you like massage, you absolutely must try this: a few hundred Baht seems a small price to pay for such a miraculous treatment.

Note: When going for a massage, please make sure your therapist is certified - or you may literally suffer the consequences. Beach massage, other than basic foot massage, should be avoided at all costs, unless offered specifically as a service by your hotel.